For fine, shallow lines rather than deep creases.
Consultation-led aesthetic medicine · Brighton & Hove · By appointmentConsultation-led · Brighton
DULLNESS · TEXTURE · TONE
Superficial PeelsRefresh your skin with minimal downtime.
A fresher look for dull skin, rough patches and uneven tone, with a lighter peel and a shorter recovery than deeper resurfacing.
At a glance
What a superficial peel
can change.
Renewal can soften roughness, helping your skin feel smoother.
Reducing dullness and uneven pigmentation can give your skin a more uniform colour.
Surface renewal can help your skin look brighter and more luminous.
Quick overviewYour appointment at a glance
- Appointment
- 60 minutes, including skin preparation, treatment and aftercare advice.
- Fee
- £150 per session (£130 when treatment is repeated within three months). View current fees.
- Preparation
- Your written preparation plan explains which skincare products to pause and what to use instead.
- Recovery
- Usually little disruption. Depending on the peel, mild redness, dryness or flaking may occur.
- Further sessions
- The number and spacing follow your skin’s response and healing, rather than a fixed course for everyone.
- Booking
- Book a treatment appointment or choose a separate consultation first.
The complete conversation
Your questions about
superficial peels
What superficial peels can improve in texture, fine lines and uneven tone, and what treatment and recovery involve.
odNOVA guide
- 1You
- 2Piotr
- 3Clinical
- 4In depth
Choose a question
What is a superficial chemical peel?Piotr answers
Piotr
A superficial peel uses an acid solution to exfoliate the outer layer of skin, called the epidermis.
Acids such as glycolic, mandelic or lactic acid loosen the connections between surface cells, helping them shed as the skin renews.
What superficial means
“Superficial” describes the depth of treatment: the peel acts within the outer layer of skin, the epidermis.
Think of it like polishing the surface of a wooden floor rather than sanding it down to the bare wood.
That comparison describes depth, not how gentle the treatment feels.
A superficial peel can range from light exfoliation with almost no visible flaking to a more noticeable peel.
Some peels can also be used more intensively, depending on the formulation, concentration and how they are applied.
The acid name alone does not determine that depth.
Concentration, application and the skin’s condition also affect how far a peel acts. [4]
Does a stronger peel always give a better result?
Strength matters, but stronger is not automatically more suitable.
Deeper treatment can produce a more pronounced improvement in lines and texture, with more recovery and a different risk profile.
For a change confined to the surface, that extra depth may add irritation without addressing anything further.
What can a superficial peel improve, and where are its limits?Piotr answers
Piotr
It can smooth rough texture, soften fine surface lines and make dull or uneven skin look fresher.
The improvement comes from renewing the skin surface, so it is most useful when the changes you want to address are superficial.
A peel does not replace lost facial volume or lift sagging tissue.
More established lines and sun damage may benefit from TCA skin resurfacing, which treats more deeply.
Can it help blocked pores and dark marks?
A superficial peel can also help congestion and selected superficial pigmentation.
The formulation depends on whether the concern is blocked pores, active acne or the brown marks left afterwards.
Can it help active acne?
If you have active, painful cystic acne, a cosmetic peel is not the right starting point.
I would recommend medical assessment and treatment first.
Salicylic acid peels can help congested pores or mild acne alongside acne treatment.
Can it help post-acne marks?
Some brown marks left by acne may fade with treatment.
These are pigment changes, often called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or PIH.
Red marks involve a different process, while an indented scar is a change in the skin’s structure.
These concerns need different treatments.
Can it treat deeper lines, sagging skin or indented scars?
A superficial peel can improve the skin’s surface, but it will not lift sagging skin or remove deep creases.
Indented scars also need a different approach because the change extends beneath the surface.
Selected scars may benefit from TCA CROSS, which treats each scar individually.
Which acid should be used, and why?Piotr answers
Piotr
Glycolic and lactic acid peels can improve fine lines, rough texture and uneven tone.
Mandelic acid offers more gradual exfoliation, while salicylic acid is useful when blocked pores are also a concern.
The choice of acid depends on your skin, its sensitivity and any previous reactions. Concentration, pH, formulation and application affect how deeply the peel acts and how your skin recovers. [4]
Get to know the acids
You do not need to choose your own peel. Explore the differences, and bring any questions to your appointment.
Glycolic acid
- What it can help
- Fine lines, rough texture and uneven tone.
- What makes it different
- Its small molecule penetrates skin readily.
- What that means for you
- The formulation and contact time help control how intensive the peel is. [4]
Mandelic acid
- What it can help
- Uneven tone, oily skin and congestion.
- What makes it different
- A larger molecule, generally associated with more gradual penetration.
- What that means for you
- It can suit a more gradual approach, but a concentrated mandelic peel is not automatically mild. [4]
Lactic acid
- What it can help
- Roughness, fine lines and uneven tone.
- What makes it different
- Lactate is also part of the skin’s natural moisturising factor.
- What that means for you
- Its connection with hydration is useful to understand, but a lactic-acid peel can still cause temporary dryness. [15]
Salicylic acid
- What it can help
- Blocked pores and mild acne.
- What makes it different
- It is oil-soluble and acts within oily follicles.
- What that means for you
- That makes it useful for congestion; it does not mean it is the deepest peel. [4]
What does research show about the results?Piotr answers
Piotr
Studies have reported smoother skin, softer fine lines and improved brightness after a course of superficial peels.
A separate trial also found improvements in measured skin hydration and elasticity. [1] [5] [6]
When will I see a change, and how long will it last?
You may first notice that your skin feels smoother and looks fresher once it has healed, often within a week after a light peel.
Fine lines take longer to assess, so allow a few weeks to see how much they have softened. [3]
How long the improvement lasts varies from person to person.
Your skin continues to change with age and sun exposure, so the result will change too.
Daily sun protection and skincare suited to your skin can help you maintain the improvement.
If roughness, dullness or fine lines become noticeable again, we can discuss whether another peel would be worthwhile.
Research and results
Eleven treatment studies and one review of safety, grouped by acid and comparison.
Open a group, then a study for the participants, treatment, results and limitations.
Fine lines, oily skin, acne and pigmentation are different concerns. Each study belongs to its particular population and formulation; a result for one concern does not establish benefit for another.
Glycolic acid · Studies with a control
These studies included an acid-free or sunscreen-only comparison. The second also tested lactic acid.
Newman et al. (1996) · Fine lines and texture · 34 completers
After four weekly 50% glycolic-acid peels, 85% of participants showed improvement in fine lines on the treated side of the face, compared with 0% on the control side.
NOTE: This means 85% of participants had an improvement, not that their wrinkles were reduced by 85%.
Study details and original results
Who was studied? 41 adults aged 35–70 with sun-damaged skin enrolled; 34 completed.
Each person received glycolic acid on one side and the same gel without acid on the other.
Treatment and timing.
Four weekly applications, assessed one week after the final treatment by a blinded dermatologist.
Skin texture.
Roughness improved on 91% of treated facial sides, compared with 3% of control sides.
Coarse wrinkles did not improve.
What limits this result?
The acid was always applied to the left side.
The study was small and did not establish how long the improvement lasted.
Redness, scaling and irritation were reported without event counts.
Prestes et al. (2013) · Fine lines around the eyes · 27 women
In a small study, image-measured wrinkle area decreased during three monthly glycolic-acid or lactic-acid peels, while a sunscreen-only group changed little.
There were nine women in each group.
Study details and original results
Who was studied?
27 women aged 35–60 with skin types II–IV were assigned to 70% glycolic acid, 85% lactic acid or sunscreen without a peel. All groups used the same sunscreen.
Treatment and timing.
Three monthly peels, with each acid applied for three minutes. Images were assessed at baseline and days 30, 60 and 90.
Day 90 was the course endpoint; later benefit after stopping treatment was not measured.
What was measured?
Mean wrinkle-occupied area beside the right eye changed from 9.98% to 7.22% with glycolic acid, from 12.61% to 7.93% with lactic acid and from 8.97% to 8.35% with sunscreen alone.
Beside the left eye, values were 8.35% to 7.14%, 11.73% to 7.85% and 8.45% to 8.45% respectively.
These percentages describe the area occupied by wrinkles in a small image field; they are not the proportion of women who improved or the percentage of wrinkles removed.
Recovery and adverse effects.
Immediate redness and burning were described in some cases without counts or duration.
The authors reported no pigment darkening or lightening among the 18 women receiving acids. This small study cannot establish zero risk.
What limits this result?
Only nine women per group, different starting wrinkle areas and no reported blinded image assessment.
The paper compared changes over time within each group but did not give a direct acid-versus-control effect estimate or confidence interval. It therefore cannot establish that one acid was better than the other.
No practical downtime or lasting benefit after the course was measured.
Glycolic acid · Comparisons with other treatments
These studies compare particular treatment protocols, including superficial TCA, LHA, a cream and laser. The pigmentation study concerns melasma.
Kubiak et al. (2014) · Hydration and elasticity · 20 women
After five treatments spaced two weeks apart, both glycolic-acid and superficial TCA peels improved measured skin hydration and elasticity.
Hydration improved sooner with glycolic acid.
Study details and original results
Who was studied? 20 women with sun-damaged facial skin, treated with 70% glycolic-acid or 15% TCA peels.
Treatment and timing.
Five sessions at fortnightly intervals.
Measurements were taken before treatments and three months after the final session.
What else was found?
Pigment measurements improved significantly with glycolic acid.
Redness increased significantly with TCA.
What limits this result?
A small comparison of two active treatments.
The published abstract does not give numerical changes in hydration or elasticity, so it cannot support a percentage improvement or a claim about lifting sagging skin.
Oresajo et al. (2008) · Fine lines and uneven pigmentation · 44 completers
After six fortnightly peels, fine-line improvement was recorded in 30% of women on the glycolic-acid side and 41% on the capryloyl-salicylic-acid side at week 12.
This means that 30% and 41% of women showed an improvement — not that their wrinkles were reduced by 30% or 41%.
Study details and original results
Who was studied?
50 women aged 35–60 enrolled; 44 completed.
Each received both treatments, randomly assigned to opposite facial sides.
Treatment and timing.
Six sessions used 20–50% glycolic acid and 5–10% capryloyl salicylic acid (LHA, a salicylic-acid derivative).
Both sides received the same home skincare.
Final assessment was one week after the last peel.
What else was found?
Pigmentation improved in 34% on the glycolic side and 46% on the LHA side.
Neither treatment was statistically superior.
What limits this result?
No untreated comparison or long-term follow-up.
Authors worked for L’Oréal.
Three participants stopped because of redness, stinging and burning on the LHA side.
Rouvrais et al. (2018) · Crow’s feet · 55 women
After three glycolic-acid peels, measured crow’s-feet wrinkle depth fell by 4.34%, compared with 7.61% after eight weeks of a retinaldehyde-based cream.
The difference between groups was not statistically significant.
Study details and original results
Who was studied?
55 women with sun-related skin ageing were randomly assigned to peels or daily cream.
Treatment and timing.
Three glycolic peels at 20%, 50% and 70%, spaced two to three weeks apart, were compared with eight weeks of a multi-ingredient cream containing 0.1% retinaldehyde.
What else was found?
Both treatments improved wrinkle measurements.
The cream performed better on the reported texture measure and caused fewer physical signs of irritation.
What limits this result?
A small, short-term comparison without an untreated group.
Several authors worked for the cream manufacturer.
This measured depth change does not establish how noticeable or lasting the improvement was.
Kar et al. (2012) · Melasma · 75 participants enrolled
After a 12-week glycolic-acid course, the mean melasma severity score fell from 10.78 to 6.425 in the 19 participants who completed that arm — a 40.44% reduction as reported by the authors.
The study also compared two different laser protocols.
Study details and original results
Who was studied?
75 adults with melasma were allocated to three groups of 25. The analysis included 19 glycolic-acid, 21 low-fluence laser and 20 high-fluence laser completers.
Completers had skin types IV–V.
Treatment and timing.
The glycolic group had three 35% peels followed by three 70% peels, two weeks apart, with retinoid preparation and sunscreen.
The low-fluence laser group had 12 weekly sessions; the high-fluence group had six fortnightly sessions. Results were assessed after 12 weeks of treatment and a further 12 weeks of follow-up.
Comparison and follow-up.
Mean melasma severity scores fell from 13.54 to 7.050 with low-fluence laser and from 10.57 to 8.375 with high-fluence laser.
The authors reported greater improvement with low-fluence laser than glycolic acid, and with glycolic acid than high-fluence laser. Detailed comparisons and confidence intervals were not supplied.
The glycolic group’s mean score rose to 7.24 during follow-up, suggesting some loss of improvement. This is a change in severity score, not a count of patients whose melasma returned.
Adverse effects.
Four of 19 glycolic completers had immediate redness and burning, reported to settle within an hour. One had post-inflammatory darkening; its duration was not reported.
Safety outcomes for the six glycolic participants who did not complete are unknown. Some high-fluence laser side-effect percentages conflict with the reported number of completers.
What limits this result?
No untreated comparison, no reported blinded assessment and an analysis restricted to completers.
The protocols differed in preparation, treatment frequency and laser settings. The results concern melasma, rather than fine lines or general skin rejuvenation.
The follow-up text contains statistical and printing errors, so it cannot establish equal recurrence between treatments. Practical downtime was not measured.
Mandelic acid · Oily skin and comparisons
The study below measured oily-skin parameters. The mandelic-versus-salicylic study concerns acne and blocked pores.
Ciozda et al. (2026) · Oily skin · 18 women in the peel group
After six mandelic-containing peels, measured surface sebum on the cheeks fell from 188.44 to 140.54 μg/cm².
The change in the T-zone was not statistically significant.
Study details and original results
Who was studied?
55 women aged 18–47 with oily skin were assigned to three active-treatment groups. Eighteen received the peel course. Inflammatory acne was excluded.
Treatment and timing.
Six sessions, 21 days apart, used a commercial formulation containing 60% mandelic acid with other ingredients, including citric acid, quercetin and acetic acid.
Measurements were taken at baseline, day 63 and day 126. The paper does not establish the exact interval between the last session and final measurement.
What else was found?
Instrument-measured hydration rose from 43.44 to 51.66 units on the cheeks and from 42.98 to 48.62 in the T-zone.
The study compared the peel with microneedling using a multi-ingredient ampoule, and with three peels followed by three microneedling sessions. Differences in sebum change between groups were not statistically significant; this does not establish equal effectiveness.
What limits this result?
No untreated or placebo group, small groups and no reported assessor blinding.
These are instrument readings from a particular formulation, rather than the proportion of women who noticed improvement. Surface sebum is not a direct measure of how quickly the glands produce oil.
The study did not measure fine-line improvement, acne clearance, recovery days or adverse-event rates. Longer-term benefit after stopping treatment is unknown.
Lactic acid · Fine lines and combination peels
These studies used lactic acid with other ingredients. The small lactic-versus-glycolic and sunscreen study appears in the controlled glycolic section.
Fanning et al. (2023) · Texture, tone and fine lines · 32 completers
After three monthly combination peels, dermatologists recorded smoother skin by touch in 75% of women, improved brightness in 91% and improved fine lines in 53%.
There was no control group.
Study details and original results
Who was studied? 33 women enrolled; 32 completed.
They had mild-to-moderate facial ageing and skin types I–V.
Treatment and timing.
Three peels containing 6% TCA and 12% lactic acid, four weeks apart, with shared skincare.
Results were assessed four weeks after the last peel.
What do the percentages mean?
These percentages tell you how many women showed an improvement, not how much their wrinkles changed.
Deeper wrinkles did not improve significantly.
What limits this result?
No untreated comparison, short follow-up and an industry-affiliated author.
Results apply to this combination and skincare regimen.
Reported adverse events included swelling, temporary pigment lightening and two acne flares requiring antibiotics.
Chauhan & Singh (2021) · Fine lines and roughness · 60 women
Adding 30% lactic acid to a ferulic-acid and vitamin C protocol produced a larger improvement in fine-line and roughness scores than the same protocol without lactic acid.
Results were assessed one month after six sessions.
Study details and original results
Who was studied?
60 women aged 25–36 with signs of photoageing and skin types III–IV, with 30 in each group. All completed the study.
Treatment and timing.
Six sessions, 15 days apart. Both groups received a 12% ferulic peel followed by 15% L-ascorbic acid; one group also received 30% lactic acid first.
A nurse reported as blinded to the groups assessed the results one month after the final session.
Fine lines and texture.
On a 0–4 fine-line scale, where a lower score means fewer lines, the mean changed from 2.50 to 0.43 with the lactic combination and from 2.70 to 1.50 with the comparison protocol.
The additional improvement was 0.87 points, with a 95% confidence interval of 0.61–1.13.
Mean roughness scores changed from 2.70 to 0.83 and from 2.90 to 1.53 respectively; the additional improvement was 0.50 points, with a 95% confidence interval of 0.24–0.76.
Recovery and adverse effects.
The authors described redness and dryness lasting 48 hours with the lactic combination, compared with shorter symptoms in the other group, but did not give participant counts.
They reported no complications or withdrawals. The sample was too small to estimate uncommon harms reliably.
What limits this result?
This tests adding lactic acid to a shared active formulation, rather than lactic acid alone. Changes in rating scores are not percentages of wrinkles removed.
Randomisation was reported without its method or allocation concealment. The participants were relatively young.
Although the authors mention six-month follow-up, they publish no six-month efficacy scores or recurrence counts.
Salicylic acid and LHA · Acne, dark marks and comparisons
Salicylic acid and its derivative LHA are different formulations. The LHA-versus-glycolic study covers fine lines and pigmentation; the studies below address acne or post-inflammatory marks.
Dayal et al. (2020) · Acne and blocked pores · 50 people
After six fortnightly peels, the authors reported a 73.4% reduction in the mean number of comedones with 30% salicylic acid, compared with 59.66% with 45% mandelic acid.
This concerns acne and blocked pores, rather than skin ageing.
Study details and original results
Who was studied?
50 people with mild-to-moderate facial acne were allocated to 25 in each group. A dermatologist described as blinded counted lesions.
Treatment and timing.
Six 30% salicylic-acid or 45% mandelic-acid peels, two weeks apart, with sunscreen.
Final assessment was at week 12, two weeks after the sixth peel. No later recurrence follow-up was reported.
What do the results mean?
The figures show changes in average lesion counts, rather than the proportion of patients cleared of acne. The authors reported a greater reduction in comedones with salicylic acid.
Both treatments reduced inflammatory lesions, but the paper gives conflicting statements about the difference in papule improvement, so it cannot support a confident claim that mandelic acid was superior.
Adverse effects.
Burning or stinging was recorded in 20/25 salicylic-acid and 1/25 mandelic-acid participants; redness in 9/25 and 2/25; post-inflammatory darkening in 3/25 and 0/25 respectively.
Event duration and treatment were not reported, and categories may overlap. No hypertrophic scars or keloids were observed; the sample cannot estimate rare risks reliably.
What limits this result?
No untreated group, incomplete reporting of allocation and participant flow, and short follow-up.
Some efficacy figures and statistical statements conflict. The study does not establish a universal advantage or lower risk for every mandelic formulation.
Practical downtime was not measured.
Joshi et al. (2009) · Post-inflammatory dark marks · 10 completers
After five salicylic-acid peels, participants rated the treated side more favourably, but blinded dermatologists did not find a statistically significant advantage over the untreated side.
The two assessments gave different answers.
Study details and original results
Who was studied?
11 adults with facial post-inflammatory pigmentation enrolled; 10 women aged 23–49 with skin types IV–VI completed.
One facial side was randomly selected for treatment; both sides received sunscreen.
Treatment and timing.
Five peels approximately two weeks apart: two at 20% salicylic acid followed by three at 30%.
Assessment took place two weeks after the fifth peel, with no later follow-up.
What was found?
Three independent blinded dermatologists assessed photographs. Their combined ratings did not demonstrate greater improvement on the treated side (p=0.11).
Participants knew which side was treated. Their mean improvement rating was 40.1/100 for the treated side and 7.8/100 for the control side (p=0.004). These are rating scores, rather than measured pigment clearance.
Adverse effects.
Among the 10 completers, all reported burning and redness during at least one peel. Afterwards, all reported dryness, four reported crusting and four reported pigment darkening at least once. The reported pigment changes resolved.
Separately, one of the 11 enrolled participants withdrew after the first peel because of dryness, peeling and darkening. These are participant counts across the course, not risks per session.
What limits this result?
A very small pilot with short follow-up and one intolerance-related withdrawal.
Participants were unblinded, while the blinded photographic assessment did not establish a benefit over the control side. Both findings need to remain together.
The study does not determine long-term benefit, practical downtime or uncommon risks, and its findings concern post-inflammatory dark marks rather than all pigmentation.
Safety across superficial peels
This review combines different superficial peel treatments. Its rates are not specific to one acid.
Vemula et al. (2018) · Safety · 473 treatments
Recorded complications affected 3.8% of treatments — about 1 in 26.
Pigment darkening affected 1.9% — about 1 in 53.
Study details and original results
Who was studied?
A five-year, single-centre retrospective review of superficial peels in skin phototypes III–VI.
Treatment and timing. 473 treatments, not 473 unique patients; the review included different superficial peel treatments.
What was measured? 18/473 treatments had a recorded complication.
Crusting was reported in 2.3%, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in 1.9% and redness in 1.9%; categories can overlap.
All recorded effects resolved within eight months, so “resolved” does not mean brief.
Skin phototype VI had higher odds of a complication.
What limits this result?
Observational records may miss events.
These figures are treatment-level estimates from one centre, not your personal risk or rates for deeper TCA skin resurfacing.
Will I need a course of treatments, and how much will it cost?Piotr answers
Piotr
A single peel may leave your skin feeling smoother and looking fresher.
Fine lines and uneven tone may need a course of treatments for a more noticeable improvement.
The number of treatments will depend on the peel and the changes we are treating.
A superficial peel costs £150 per session (£130 when treatment is repeated within three months).
I can suggest how many treatments you may need.
Each session helps us understand how your skin responds and heals.
I use that information to adjust the next treatment and the time between appointments as we go. View current fees.
How often would I need treatment?
The interval depends on the peel and how your skin heals. The first treatment helps me judge when it will be ready for another session.
Your skin needs time to settle between peels.
If redness, soreness or irritation persists, the next treatment can wait until it has recovered.
What happens during a superficial peel?Piotr answers
Piotr
We begin with time for any questions you may have, followed by skin preparation and the treatment itself.
The application of the peel solution is only part of the appointment.
How the treatment is finished depends on the formulation; some acids need neutralising to stop their action.
Afterwards, I apply the finishing care and go through aftercare with you.
Will a superficial peel hurt?Piotr answers
Piotr
Depending on the peel, its strength and your skin, you may feel stinging, heat or tightness.
I will be with you throughout, checking how you feel.
You are always welcome to ask me to pause or let me know if there is anything that would help you feel more comfortable.
How long does recovery take, and will I visibly peel?Piotr answers
Piotr
Usually there is little disruption to your routine. Mild redness, dryness or flaking can occur; some peels cause more noticeable shedding. The formulation and your skin’s response affect how quickly the area settles.
Makeup, exercise and your usual skincare need to fit that recovery. Your written aftercare gives the instructions for the peel used. Let any peeling skin come away naturally rather than rubbing or picking it.
Recovery
A gentle cleanser (preferably a non-foaming formula), moisturiser and sun protection help keep your skin comfortable while it heals.
Let any loose skin come away naturally. Picking or pulling it off can interfere with healing and increase the risk of scarring.
I will explain when you can return to makeup, exercise and your usual skincare, with written advice to refer to at home.
Does more visible peeling mean a better result?
You do not have to see visible flaking for a superficial peel to have an effect.
Deeper peels generally cause more noticeable shedding and can produce greater improvements in lines and texture.
However, visible peeling alone does not tell us how much the skin has improved.
When can I restart retinol, acids or other active skincare?
Once the skin has recovered sufficiently for the particular product.
Retinol, exfoliating acids and some vitamin C formulations can sting or irritate recovering skin, even after visible flaking has stopped.
Your aftercare gives the timing for your products.
If your skin remains sore or stings with gentle skincare, please check with me before restarting stronger products.
Prescribed treatments need their own agreed plan.
When should a peel wait?Piotr answers
Piotr
A peel needs to wait if the skin is sunburnt, actively irritated, infected or affected by a cold sore.
Exfoliating skin that is already inflamed adds irritation rather than helping it recover.
If you are planning a holiday in the sun, we should plan your peel around it, allowing time for your skin to recover and for you to follow the sun-protection advice.
Rosacea or eczema also needs to be settled first.
Preparation
Before your appointment, I will send you a written preparation plan.
It will explain which skincare products to pause and what to use instead, so your skin is settled and ready for treatment.
Do medicines, pregnancy or previous treatments matter?
Yes. Medicines, supplements, pregnancy or breastfeeding, allergies and previous treatments can change which peel is suitable and when it can be carried out.
Aspirin or salicylate allergies are particularly relevant when considering a salicylic acid peel and may change the treatment choice.
Current or recent prescription acne treatment, including isotretinoin, needs to be considered alongside the peel and the condition of your skin. Taking isotretinoin does not automatically rule out a superficial peel. The peel needs to be adapted to the condition of your skin and your current treatment. A superficial peel and deeper resurfacing do not have the same recovery or risks. [16]
Any change to prescribed medication should be agreed with the clinician responsible for it.
How do I plan this around other treatments?
Combining treatments too closely can add irritation before the skin has recovered.
The order and spacing depend on what each procedure does, the area treated and the condition of the skin afterwards.
We can plan them together so one treatment does not compromise recovery from another.
Can I have a peel with rosacea or sensitive skin?
Sometimes, once the skin is settled, but a mild-sounding acid is not enough to establish suitability.
Rosacea, eczema and an irritated skin barrier can make a peel harder to tolerate.
Current inflammation needs to settle before further exfoliation.
Some skin will be better served by a different approach.
Could a peel make my pigmentation darker?Piotr answers
Piotr
It can, but the risk is different for each person.
The cause of your pigmentation, how your skin reacts to inflammation and the peel being considered all matter.
Inflammation can sometimes stimulate pigment production and leave a darker mark after the skin has healed.
This is more likely if your skin already develops dark marks after spots, scratches or other irritation.
Reducing that risk starts with understanding what is causing your pigmentation, choosing a suitable treatment depth and preparing the skin where needed.
Sun protection during recovery is also important.
Some patients benefit from prescribed pigment-control skincare before treatment.
Whether this would help you depends on the type of pigmentation and your skin’s history.
These measures can reduce the risk, although they cannot remove it completely.
What if a previous treatment left me with dark marks?
A previous dark mark after treatment suggests that inflammation can trigger pigment in your skin.
The treatment that caused it, how long it lasted and what helped it fade are useful clues when deciding on preparation and depth.
Photographs can help show the change.
Should a skin mark be checked before a peel?
Yes, if its cause is uncertain.
A flat brown mark may be suitable for cosmetic treatment, but a new, changing, bleeding or crusting mark needs medical assessment first.
Removing surface pigment does not establish what caused the mark.
What are the risks?Piotr answers
Piotr
Mild redness, dryness and flaking usually settle as the skin heals.
More persistent irritation or changes in skin colour can occur.
In one study of 473 superficial peel treatments in people with skin types III–VI, complications were recorded after 3.8% of treatments — about 1 in 26.
Dark marks after inflammation were recorded after 1.9% — about 1 in 53. [2]
These figures describe recorded complications in that study, rather than all the mild redness or flaking expected during recovery.
Infection, delayed healing and scarring are also possible.
The risk is greater with stronger peels that act more deeply, although it is not absent with superficial treatment. [4]
The likelihood depends on the formulation, treatment depth and your skin.
Preparation and aftercare help reduce the risk.
Possible side effects
Other possible reactions include swelling, dermatitis (an inflammatory skin reaction), an acne flare or reactivation of a cold sore.
Pigment changes can include lighter patches as well as darkening.
Accidental eye exposure can cause injury.
The study figures come from one clinic and describe treatments in that group, rather than your individual risk.
They do not establish a reliable percentage for infection, delayed healing or scarring after every type of superficial peel.
Can I contact the clinic after my appointment?
Yes.
You are welcome to contact me if you have a question or would like me to check your skin.
You can message me directly on WhatsApp or send me an email.
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Question index
All your questions, by topic.
Open a topic and choose a question to go straight to its answer.
Browse all 26 questions
What a superficial peel can do6 questions
Acids, strength and evidence3 questions
Sessions, results and fees3 questions
Your appointment and comfort2 questions
Recovery and skincare3 questions
Suitability and preparation4 questions
Pigmentation, risks and support5 questions
References & sources
The studies above link to their original publications. Each summary explains the treatment used, what was measured and the limits of the findings.
View all 17 references
- Newman N, et al. Clinical improvement of photoaged skin with 50% glycolic acid. A double-blind vehicle-controlled study. Dermatologic Surgery. 1996;22(5):455–460. Read the original research.
- Vemula S, Maymone MBC, Secemsky EA, et al. Assessing the safety of superficial chemical peels in darker skin: a retrospective study. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. 2018;79(3):508–513.e2. doi:10.1016/j.jaad.2018.02.064. Accessed 4 August 2026.
- American Academy of Dermatology. Chemical peels: FAQs. General depth-based healing guidance; not an individual clinic protocol. Accessed 8 September 2026.
- Soleymani T, Lanoue J, Rahman Z. A Practical Approach to Chemical Peels: A Review of Fundamentals and Step-by-step Algorithmic Protocol for Treatment. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2018;11(8):21–28. PubMed record. Acid properties and treatment-depth context. Accessed 8 September 2026.
- Kubiak M, Mucha P, Dębowska R, Rotsztejn H. Evaluation of 70% glycolic peels versus 15% trichloroacetic peels for the treatment of photodamaged facial skin in aging women. Dermatologic Surgery. 2014;40(8):883–891. Read the published abstract.
- Fanning J, Jacob C, Diaz I, Ibrahim O. Treatment of mild-to-moderate facial cutaneous aging using a combination peel containing 6% trichloroacetic acid and 12% lactic acid. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2023;22:3033–3041. Read the original research.
- Oresajo C, Yatskayer M, Hansenne I. Clinical tolerance and efficacy of capryloyl salicylic acid peel compared to a glycolic acid peel in subjects with fine lines/wrinkles and hyperpigmented skin. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2008;7(4):259–262. Original publication.
- Rouvrais C, Baspeyras M, Mengeaud V, Rossi AB. Antiaging efficacy of a retinaldehyde-based cream compared with glycolic acid peel sessions: A randomized controlled study. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2018;17:1136–1143. Original publication.
- Kar HK, Gupta L, Chauhan A. A comparative study on efficacy of high and low fluence Q-switched Nd:YAG laser and glycolic acid peel in melasma. Indian Journal of Dermatology, Venereology and Leprology. 2012;78:165–171. Read the original research.
- Ciozda A, Firlej E, Bartosińska J, Raczkiewicz D. The Effect of Microneedling Mesotherapy, Chemical Exfoliation and Combination Therapy on Selected Skin Parameters and Cutibacterium acnes Colonization in Women With Oily Skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2026;25:e70752. Read the original research.
- Chauhan A, Singh S. Comparative Analysis of Efficacy of Lactic Acid with Ferulic Peel (Combination Peel) Vs Ferulic Peel Alone as a Monotherapy for Photoaging. Aesthetic Plastic Surgery. 2021;45(1):281–288. Read the original research.
- Prestes PS, Oliveira MMM, Leonardi GR. Randomized clinical efficacy of superficial peeling with 85% lactic acid versus 70% glycolic acid. Anais Brasileiros de Dermatologia. 2013;88(6):900–905. Read the original research.
- Dayal S, Kalra KD, Sahu P. Comparative study of efficacy and safety of 45% mandelic acid versus 30% salicylic acid peels in mild-to-moderate acne vulgaris. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. 2020;19:393–399. Read the original research.
- Joshi SS, Boone SL, Alam M, et al. Effectiveness, Safety, and Effect on Quality of Life of Topical Salicylic Acid Peels for Treatment of Postinflammatory Hyperpigmentation in Dark Skin. Dermatologic Surgery. 2009;35(4):638–644. Read the original research.
- Nakagawa N, et al. Relationship between NMF (lactate and potassium) content and the physical properties of the stratum corneum in healthy subjects. Journal of Investigative Dermatology. 2004;122(3):755–763. Original publication. Skin-hydration physiology; not a clinical trial of lactic-acid peels.
- American Society for Dermatologic Surgery (2017). Consensus recommendations on skin procedures during and after isotretinoin use. PubMed record. Supports individual assessment rather than a blanket delay for superficial chemical peels; this does not establish the same approach for deeper resurfacing.
- Rajanala S, Vashi NA. Cleopatra and sour milk: the ancient practice of chemical peeling. JAMA Dermatology. 2017;153(10):1006. Original historical article. Historical context only.
This page provides general information, not individual medical advice. Treatment, preparation and aftercare are agreed after assessment. Research protocols are not instructions for home treatment.